THE WINE LIST

Well-selected wine lists need not have hundreds of wines to be successful. Despite the glitzy nature of Tatou, there is substance to its list of 60 wines.

The offerings include a selection of styles, from delicate Chardonnays (1990 Grgich Hills, $38) to big (1990 Babcock Grand Cuvee, $50); from light reds (1992 Bonny Doon Clos de Gilroy Grenache, $20) to bold (1986 Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, $75).

Best white wine on the menu for all purposes is 1991 Frog’s Leap Sauvignon Blanc, $21. Best red is a tossup between 1990 Shafer Merlot, $30, and 1989 Silverado Cabernet Sauvignon, $28. But the red wine list has some other gems, too, such as 1990 Havens Merlot, $28; 1991 Qupe Syrah, $22, and the wonderful 1989 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir from the Sanford/Benedict Vineyard, $47.

The most creative choices to match with food, however, might be the excellent sparkling wines Roederer Estate Brut, $27, or 1989 Iron Horse Brut, $34, both bargains and superb with many lighter main dishes.

Considering Tatou’s high-rent location, pricing here is fair, though I would avoid 1991 Buehler White Zinfandel, which retails for $6. Here it’s $20.