Holiday flavor on ice

For a last-minute but luxurious Thanksgiving dessert, there’s nothing quicker than picking up some premium ice cream in a tempting seasonal flavor. The Times Test Kitchen tasters sampled pumpkin ice creams from several makers and found a terrific trio, each with its virtues.

The great pumpkin: Of the ice creams we sampled, McConnell’s has the best true pumpkin flavor, and it is bursting with it. It also has a wonderful balance of pumpkin, spice and sweetness, with a satisfying milky undertone. The butterscotch color adds to its appeal.

McConnell’s ice cream: $3.89 to $4.19 a pint at selected Bristol Farms, Ralphs, Gelson’s and Whole Foods stores.

Forward flavor: This robust ice cream has an almost chewy texture that hints of pie filling. With its nutmeg color, it tastes of assertive pumpkin-pie spices, not pumpkin. That was just fine with our tasters, who voted it a dandy alternative.

Dr. Bob’s Handcrafted pumpkin ice cream: $7.50 a pint at Julienne, 2649 Mission St., San Marino, (626) 441-2299.

Creamy classic: This rich pick has such a mild pumpkin flavor that it hardly seemed to be in the same category, but it was judged to be a creamy treat that would make a nice special-touch accompaniment to pie.

Cold Stone Creamery Country Pumpkin Pie ice cream: $4.79 a pint at Cold Stone Creamery ice cream parlors throughout Southern California.