Savoring the landscape of Lungau

GETTING THERE:

From LAX to Munich, connecting service (change of plane) is available on Lufthansa, Swiss, US Airways, Air France and KLM. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $604. Lungau is three hours by car.

To Salzburg, Lufthansa, KLM and Swiss have connecting service. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $570. Lungau is an hour away.

TELEPHONES:

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 43 (country code for Austria) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Das Seekarhaus, Obertauern; 64-562-0010, fax 64-562-001010, https://www.seekarhaus.at/test.htm (in German). The recently refurbished Seekarhaus is at mid-mountain, making it ideal for a ski holiday or a summer hiking retreat. Doubles with breakfast and dinner from $148.

Gasthof Steffner-Wallner, Markt 90, Mauterndorf; 64-727-214, fax 64-727-794, https://www.sbg.at/steffner-wallner (in German). We stayed in this hotel on Mauterndorf’s town square, just below the castle. It is as authentically Austrian as they come. It offers good food and easy access to downhill and cross-country skiing, golf and hiking. Doubles with breakfast and dinner from $102.

Gasthof Gambswirt, 7 Marktplatz, Tamsweg; 64-742-337, fax 64-742-33753, https://www.gambswirt.at (in German). The Gambswirt, on Tamsweg’s market square, has a dining room, a bar and one of the Lungau Valley’s only discos. Doubles with breakfast and dinner, $102.

Wellnesshotel Eggerwirt, St. Michael; 64-778-2240, fax 64-778-22455, https://www.eggerwirt.at (in German). Within a mile of Lungau’s 18-hole golf course and near a ski lift connecting to Grosseck-Speiereck ski resort. Doubles with three meals daily from $188.

WHERE TO EAT:

In Mauterndorf: Schlossschenke, Markt 27, 6472-7294. A cozy couple of rooms in the 12th century Mauterndorf castle. Try the käsespätzle, served in a huge iron pan on a wooden stand at your table; the dumplings in wild mushroom sauce; or local farmers’ sausages. Entrees $8-$14.

Cafe Essl, Markt 53, 6472-72610. Regional cuisine with a modern touch. Try the traditional schnitzel or the local game specialties. Entrees $10-$15.

Messnerhaus, Markt 56, 6472-75950. The fanciest place in Lungau, in a beautifully remodeled 11th century rectory. Specialties include local cheeses, game, trout, locally distilled spirits and Austrian wines. Entrees $14-$18.

In Tamsweg, try Waldmann’s, which is the most authentic local wine pub in Lungau. Open evenings only. Come here to get to know the locals. Simple pub food, such as cheese dumpling soup and local farm-made bratwurst. Dishes $3-$6.

SKI RESORTS:

Obertauern, https://www.obertauern.at, is the largest and most glamorous resort, with spa, hotels and discos. It has 26 lifts, 75 miles of manicured runs and six miles of cross-country, snowboarding and touring runs.

Katschberg/Aineck, https://www.katschbergbahnen.at, has 37 miles of ski runs, and triple-chair lifts, four-seat chair lifts, double-chair lifts and 12 T-bars. Four ski schools and three ski kindergartens have 140 ski instructors. Katschberg/Aineck, Lungau’s second-largest ski resort, has a variety of lodging, dining and night life options.

Fanningberg, https://www.fanningbergbahnen.at, “Fanny Hill” in local parlance, is a locals’ favorite. Its six-seat “Samson” lift starts from an elevation of 4,973 feet and reaches the top at 6,666 feet in seven minutes. Fanningberg has three other lifts to transport skiers to the top of its runs, and warming huts among the lifts.

Grosseck-Speiereck in Mauterndorf, https://www.bergbahnen-lungau.at, is one of the most family-oriented resorts in the area, with nine lifts and 25 miles of runs.

TO LEARN MORE:

Austrian National Tourist Office, P.O. Box 1142, Times Square, New York, NY 10108-1142; (212) 944-6880, fax (212) 730-4568, https://www.austria.info/us.