Artichokes, Party Chokes

Each spring when artichokes--plump, verdant and as plentiful as a field of crocus--cover produce counters, it’s time for a delicious indulgence.

Start the season with steamed artichokes with melted butter, as essential to the menu this time of the year as turkey is in November. Then progress to a more sophisticated flavor combination like the one suggested by Biba Caggiano in “From Biba’s Italian Kitchen” (Hearst Books, 1995). She matches baby artichokes with sun-dried tomatoes and olive oil in a vegetable course.

I enjoy a little tart accent to artichokes and created a version using lemon juice, turning the mixture into a refreshing salad.

Although baby artichokes would be an advantage in a salad because the leaves are very tender and the centers have no chokes, they are infrequently found in supermarkets. With a little paring, two full-sized artichokes are equally good.

To complete the meal, I suggest using one of my favorite salad combinations--radicchio, walnuts and blue cheese--as the base for a pasta entree. The dish is especially good served with the artichoke salad.

ARTICHOKE AND SUN-DRIED TOMATO SALAD

2 artichokes

1 clove garlic, crushed

3 tablespoons olive oil

Salt

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons finely chopped, oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes

Freshly ground black pepper

Quarter artichokes lengthwise. Trim off sharp leaf tips and trim out fuzzy choke in center. Place artichokes in pan with just enough water to cover. Add garlic, 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, uncovered, over medium heat until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain well. Place artichokes in bowl.

Stir together remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, lemon juice, sun-dried tomatoes, salt and pepper to taste in cup. Pour over artichokes and stir well. Taste. Mixture should be peppery. Set aside 30 minutes at room temperature before serving.

Makes 2 servings.

Each serving contains about:

258 calories; 280 mg sodium; 0 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 1.52 grams fiber.

PENNE WITH RADICCHIO, BLUE CHEESE AND WALNUTS

2 teaspoons butter

1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion

2 cups slivered radicchio

1/4 cup chicken or vegetable broth

1/2 cup half and half

6 to 8 ounces penne or other tube-shaped pasta

1/4 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

1/4 pound (1 cup) crumbled blue cheese

Freshly ground white pepper

Salt, optional

Melt butter in large skillet. Add onion and saute until tender, 2 to 5 minutes. Add radicchio and chicken broth and braise until limp, about 2 minutes. Add half and half and simmer 1 minute. Set aside.

Cook penne in boiling salted water until tender. Drain well. Add to cream mixture. Stir in walnuts and cheese and simmer until cheese melts and mixture is creamy, about 5 minutes. Season well with pepper and lightly with salt to taste. Serve immediately.

Makes 2 servings.

Each serving contains about:

598 calories; 407 mg sodium; 45 mg cholesterol; 27 grams fat; 70 grams carbohydrates; 20 grams protein; 1.21 grams fiber.